“Welcome to the most democratic country in the world.”
The man, probably in his 50s or 60s, stopped us in the street to say this. Immediately we knew why. Kate and I were heading back towards the Damascus Gate of Jerusalem’s Old City, but a half hour before we had come from that direction and had seen the massive police force that Israel utilizes every Friday. I do not think the situation was more extreme today than most Fridays, just slightly more offensive. On the first day of Ramadan, hundreds come from the West Bank to pray at the Al Aqsa mosque in Jerusalem. Most of them have succumbed to the system and have obtained a permit from their occupiers to pray at the holiest Muslim site in the country, but the Israeli police still seemed to prohibit men under the age of 50 from entering the Old City this morning. When we asked why, one police officer called her commander over and told him we were interfering with her work.
So when the Palestinian man walking up the street stopped us to say, “Welcome to the most democratic country in the world,” we understood exactly what he meant. “Were you turned away?” I asked. No, he lives in Jerusalem. It’s just the sight of all the people waiting, hoping to access their holy site to pray, being turned away by Israeli authorities. “It makes you crazy,” he said. “It makes you wonder why there aren’t more suicide bombings.” We agreed, and all shrugged our shoulders somewhat helplessly and walked away.
I’ve grown up hearing Jews talk about the importance of the Western Wall in the Old City, about how the holiest site was forbidden to Jews for centuries. I wonder if any of the police officers or soldiers think about this as they guard the gates of the Old City preventing Palestinian Muslims from entering. It seems they have no awareness of the parallels, no empathy for the people, no understanding of themselves. And of course, it makes me feel I need to take on the burden of shame even more, on behalf of all of my people, be they ignorant or heartless or both.
The Israeli army’s massacre of Palestinians in Gaza continues as I write, with at least 136 dead and several hundred more injured. The settlers also seem to be getting more and more vicious these days. A few weeks ago a Palestinian taxi driver stopped to help a Jewish settler who he thought was having car trouble. The settler shot and killed him. Attacks on Palestinian farmers are increasing in number and severity. One was killed harvesting last week. Others have been beaten, their olives stolen, their groves set on fire. Very few settlers are arrested for any of these attacks. I wonder if the settlers would think it fair for the perpetrators of these acts to be assassinated without trial, their settlements closed off, their other residents arrested, their houses demolished. Or alternatively, I wonder if they would think it fair for every Palestinian attack on an Israeli to be met with a smile and something between a pat on the back and a slap on the wrist.
We picked olives and almonds last week with a family whose land lies on a hill that is now completely surrounded by settlements. The ownership of their land is the only thing separating the Gush Etzion bloc (halfway between Bethlehem and Hebron) from connecting completely to Jerusalem. They have papers dating back to 1924 from every occupying power that has been in the area, including the Israelis. Still, the settlers show up every once in a while with bulldozers and begin uprooting trees and constructing roads. Occasionally they attack people in the house, or attack the water tower or generator – structures that denote presence and sustainability. The battle over this piece of land has been in the courts since 1991.
We picked olives with a different family in a different area last week, whose trees are dying because the sewage from the settlement of Elkana runs right through Azzawiya’s land. I picked olives all day trying not to breathe through my nose, wondering if the donkey that was grazing in the area would get sick, wondering if the children breathing in this waste would get sick. On the way back from the land to the village (a walk that used to take 15 minutes but now takes over an hour because of restricted roads and paths), we saw two settler children on the hill next to us. The older one, who looked about 13, was carrying a handgun. He immediately started to fondle it when he saw us. “How are you?” the Palestinians we were with yelled up to the kids in Hebrew. They didn’t respond, but started walking away. “Don’t be afraid of us,” yelled the Palestinian. The settlers turned around, and the child with the gun yelled, “I’m not afraid! I love problems!” The man we were with seemed visibly disturbed, which surprised me. This type of interaction seems relatively normal to me, but the Palestinian turned to me and said, “It’s really not good that they teach their children to hate like this. They say we cause the problems, but then when I try to say hello they say they love problems. It’s not good that such small children have weapons.”
Perhaps because of the settlers’ ability to get away with anything, they have begun targeting internationals as well. Chris and Kim of the Christian Peacemakers’ Team (CPT) in Hebron were attacked while accompanying children to school two weeks ago. A gang of English-speaking (probably American) settlers in black masks ambushed the group and beat Chris and Kim with chains and bats. Chris suffered a punctured lung and bruised ribs, Kim a broken arm and injured knee. Last week settlers again attacked a group of 5 internationals accompanying the children. The army has responded by saying that if the internationals leave, the problem will stop. CPT points out that violence against the children existed far before the international presence (hence the reason for the presence). The ‘problem’ that the army refers to is clearly the public relations difficulty they might face trying to explain to foreign governments why their citizens are being attacked by citizens of Israel.
I thought of this incident as I was being chased down the street by a settler last night. We had gone to a large pro-settlement demonstration in Jerusalem, partly to join the counter-demonstration and partly just to see what one of these demos was like. The experience reminded me that there is no place I feel less safe and more threatened as a Jew than in Israel, by Israelis. Anger, fear, disgust, and sorrow overcame me all at once, and I walked away from the crowd sobbing. Later I wrote the short piece below. I don’t think it adequately expresses all that I was or am feeling, but it’s a start, and, for now, an end:
These are my people
These are my people
who gather in thousands to support the settlements
whose children plaster Gush Katif bumper stickers on their shirts
and cheer at the mention of a Jewish Israel from the river to the sea.
These are my people
who proudly don their hippie skirts and sandals
who look like everyone I went to summer camp with
who look like everyone I know now
who only by accident of birth are greeting each other with hugs at a settler demonstration and not a peace march.
These are my people
who jump out of the crowd to yell at Kate for wearing a shirt with “Jews for a free Palestine”
who violently push her and scream “Get the fuck out of here, murderer!”
who, upon seeing my camera, raise a fist and begin to chase me down the street, hissing
“Keep moving, you dirty bitch!”
These are my people.
These are my people
who stand around watching
at least a dozen policemen
who chuckle as the settler attacks us
who, as a response, form a line across the street and push us down, down, further and further…
These are my people
who push me away.
